Monday, February 21, 2011

Meatballs with Pappardelle

Something about meat balls and pasta that's always so comforting.  Abby (my friend's daughter) is a huge fan of it and for February I decided to satisfy her cravings as it's one of her most commonly ordered food items in a restaurant no matter where she goes.

This recipe is fairly involved as it calls for all 3 main ingredients - pasta, sauce, meat balls all to be home made.  I have never made a sauce or pasta from scratch before, so I know I am in for some challenges.  What's worse is that I don't have a pasta rolling machine or slicer, so I was most worried about the textures of the pasta but I decide to give it a go anyway.

First I started with the sauce, since it could have been made ahead of time.  I have to tell you this is the most aromatic and flavor-rich sauce I have ever tasted.  It took a lot of time, but really worth it.  Also everything is done in an oven, so you do have the benefit of doing other things while the sauce is cooking.  I started with finely chopped onions, leeks and fennels in the oven.  Yes that was a lot of chopping, a food processor definitely would have helped but I was too lazy to get that out.
Onions, Leeks and Fennel in the Oven
After the vegetables are baked for about 45 minutes, they become very caramelized and that's when I added  brown sugar and red wine vinegar.  Return the dish back to the over for another 20 minutes.  At this point, you can totally smell the richness aroma already in the house.  While this is cooking in the oven, I prepare the tomatoes.  The book called for canned San Marzano tomatoes, and luckily I was able to find those in my local market.  They were very expensive!!  Think almost 10x the cost of regular canned peeled tomatoes.  Reason being they are imported from a region by the same name in Italy, renowned for growing the best plum tomatoes for sauces.
Imported San Marzano Tomatoes
After opening the cans, I picked out all the tomatoes and loosely chopped them as they were very soft.  There were quite a bit of juice/sauce left, I saved them for later use.  Look at the bright red colors!
Canned San Marzano Tomatoes
Drained and Chopped
The sauce also called the use of a flavoring sachet.  That was pretty easy to put together, a cheese cloth tied with bay leaves, pepper corns, thyme sprigs and some crushed garlic.
Flavor Sachet Ingredients
Flavor Sachet Tied with Butcher Twine
After baking the tomatoes along with the vegetables and the flavoring sachet, my entire house smelled like Italy :)  That's pretty much when my first group of friends arrived.  You are supposed to bake the entire sauce for 1.5 hours, stirring every 30 minutes.  The book warned the sauce is EXTREMELY thick and it is, as the flavor deepens with all the liquids evaporating.
After First 30 Minutes - Sauce Looked Rich Already
As the sauce is baking, I make preparations of the pasta dough.  I have to confess that I used a slightly different recipe here because I didn't have a pasta roller.  I searched online and found Homemade Pappardelle recipe from Mike Chiarello @ Food Network that didn't require a pasta machine.  The ingredients were extremely simple: regular flour, Semolina flour, oil and egg.  I made a well and poured the egg mixture in.
Pasta Dough Making - Egg Well
After kneeling the finished dough for 10 minutes, I separated into two halves and let the dough refrigerate and rest.
Pappardelle Pasta Dough
Next comes the meat ball preparation, too bad that's when I got really busy and forgot to snap pictures!  But the recipe basically called for 3 lbs of ground meat, I know that's a lot!  But it does make for decent sized meat balls (recipe called for 12, I ended up with 16 since I had a little extra meat).  The ground meat are suppose to be different kinds (sirloin, chuck, pork butt and veal!), but if you cannot find all these, you can pretty much substitute with 2 lbs of ground beef and 1 lb of ground pork.  After seasoning and adding in the bread crumb, I tested the meat mixture for seasoning, it did turn out to be not salty and flavorful enough, so I added a little bit of salt.  This is where I think the recipe could use some help in terms of the flavoring, as the meat mixture tasted somewhat bland - but it could be my Asian/Chinese inner self speaking as we almost always mix in a lot of seasoning with ground meat, in this case, since the sauce is so rich, maybe it's intended for the meat balls themselves to be fairly true to its simple taste.

The other twist to the meat balls is it's stuffed with fresh Mozzarella cheese.  I found this to be interesting as it added saltyness and flavor to the center of these large meat balls.
Meatballs stuffed with Mozzarella Cheese
The meat balls are baked on a rack for about 18 minutes, it looked so very tasty!  You can see the cheese oozing through the meat.
Meatballs stuffed with Mozzarella Baking
Now we need to roll out the pasta dough for final cooking.  This is where I really wish I had a pasta maker.  My friend helped me muscle through the rolling and it still wasn't thin enough in the end, but we came pretty close.
Rolled Out Pasta Dough
After many hours of work, I put it all together.  Butter tossed pappardelle with fresh parsley, tomato sauce and meat balls all made from scratch is like match made in heaven.  They look and tasted amazing, especially the sauce with the rusty pasta.
Meatballs with Home Made Tomato Sauce
Home Made Pappardelle Pasta
Tasting:
The taste is definitely worth the effort.  Chewiness of the pasta worked well with the thick and rich tomato sauce.  I am not sure if I would be buying $40 tomatoes to make this sauce every time I make a pasta dish, but once in a while it's definitely worth the splurge.  The meat balls came out much more bland themselves than I imagined, but maybe because I had some high flying expectations.  I think the recipe kept the meat simple on purpose to high light the richness of the sauce, but if I am going to make this again, I would definitely kick up the seasoning in the meat.  Overall this was a very successful dinner and I really enjoyed the home made experience!  I would definitely like to own a pasta maker though to make things a bit easier.  :)

Green Bean and Potato Salad

It's time for my Thomas Keller dinner evening again and this time I decided to choose a salad since I cooked a soup entree the month before.  Flipping through the pages, this salad caught my eye as it looks delicious and fairly simple to prepare.  The black mission figs was definitely a plus but I knew even before I went shopping that I might not find the figs given it's middle of February.  Well as it turns out, my intuition was correct, the local market told me it won't be until around May/June, that they will carry fresh figs.  I decided to still go for the salad since the rest looked so good still.

I started with the green beans, after cleaning and clipping away the stems, I used the traditional vegetable blanch -> ice bath -> cooling method to cook them through.  The result is fabulous as always.  If you need a refresher on how this works, you can check out my broccoli rabe entry.
Cooked Green Beans
Then I move onto the potatoes.  The recipe called for fingering potatoes, and in my local market, I found these baby yukon golds that pretty much looked like what's photographed in the book.  They were indeed about 1 inch in diameter and was easy to cook and slice.
Baby Yukon Gold Potatoes
Next I toasted some walnuts in the oven and also used my brand new German made mandolin to cut very thin radish slices for the salad.  The mandolin worked like a charm and produced paper thin cuts!  I was very excited to leverage this apparatus for the first time and manage to have some success with it.  Notice I was also using anti-cut gloves since the radish was so small and difficult to grab onto with the safety glide.
Paper Thin Radish Slices with Mandolin
The dressing for the salad is a very easy to make, but did call for the use of a sherry vinegar, I had only the red wine vinegar on hand.  I did find sherry vinegar at whole foods, and it was expensive, but the taste was definitely worth it.
Sherry Wine Vinegar
The salad also called for Iberico ham which is a special Spanish ham made from the leg of the black Iberian pig, of course I couldn't find any of those so as the book suggested I substituted with a good prosciutto.  The final assembly was very easy, tossing the various ingredients together with the dressing and made for an elegant presentation.  One word of warning here, do not use tongs to toss this salad because of the delicate nature of the cooked beans and potatoes.  In general, Thomas Keller discourages the use of tongs as stated in the book, but for this salad it's especially true.
Finished Green Bean and Potato Salad with Prosciutto
Tasting:
Woah!  Where to start, such a simple salad but very delicious on many levels.  The sourness from the vinegar balances so well with the saltyness of the prosciutto.  And then there's the slight bitterness from the toasted walnuts and added crunch from the radish slices.  I can only imagine what it would be like with the fresh black mission figs!

Sauteed Broccoli Rabe

I actually made this a while back but never had a chance to post it.  I was getting bored of the regular side dishes and decided that I want to try something new.  Flipping through the book I came across this and decided I will go down to the local market to try to find broccoli rabe.  As it would turn out, even here in the bay area as part of northern California, it took me a while to find it.  As you can see from below, it looks quite different from broccoli or even broccolini.  

Broccoli Rabe (Bunched)
I quickly washed and separated the bunch.
Broccoli Rabe After Wash - Florets Visible
Next I followed the instructions by bringing a very large pot of water with a lot of salt to a boil and plunged the broccoli rabe into it.  What happens next is the way that Thomas Keller recommends for blanching any large amount of raw and leafy green vegetables.  It works very well as it maintains the texture and keeps the veggies looking very green and refreshing.  Don't be afraid to salt the water here as it really helps with the flavor.  The book also recommended doing this in batches if you had a lot of vegetable vs. the pot, but since I didn't have too many, I just put it all in together.
Broccoli Rabe Blanching in Large Pot of Salted Water
It took about 4 minutes to boil, until it was about right to my taste - tender but not mushy.  You then plunge the cooked broccoli rabe to an ice bath that was set up earlier.
Ice Bath Standing By
Inside the Ice Bath
After the ice bath stops the cooking process immediately, I used a cooling rack set on top of a baking sheet lined with paper towel to help dry off the vegetable.
Paper Towel Lined Cooling Rack on Baking Sheet
After the broccoli rabe completely dries off, I then sautee some garlic in my wok along with red pepper flakes.

Garlic with Red Pepper Flakes

After tossing the broccoli rabe inside, the result is a simple but amazing side dish.
Sauteed Broccoli Rabe with Garlic and Chile Flakes
Tasting:
Thomas Keller repeatedly says that we eat with our eyes first and he's right.  Cooking this vegetable using the blanch -> ice bath -> cooling rack method was very involved but it gave the broccoli rabe such a green color even after it was sauteed again later.  The taste was great also, it has a fairly strong bitter note at the very end, but it's nicely complimented by the heat given by the red pepper flakes.  It does remind me quite a bit of another vegetable that's very common in Chinese cooking - Gai Lan/Jie Lan (or known as Chinese broccoli)  I highly recommend serving this along side a steak or other kind of meat-heavy dish.